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Monday, March 23, 2015

Torn - Gauchos, Culottes, or a another drawing board?

Look at this GORGEOUS fabric! (It is draped over my table in this shot):

Hmmmm - now that I see it on screen I am doubting myself...
It's honestly more subtle than it looks here.  uh-oh.  
But the hand is gorgeous!  and it has a tricot backing - so it won't need to be lined.
(But too bad we weren't still in Jungle January....   can I get a JJ Prop for March/April?)
As crazy as it sounds, I am thinking about one of these:
KwikSew 3433
Culottes?  Trousers?
I know, weird, right?  I survived the 70s and 80s... why go back?  I don't know - they seem wearable.  and they ARE trendy.  I am not sure the fabric will hold the centre leg create in the lisette pants. 
Can a cury girl safely venture into this land?  Is it insanity to try to force this fabric to meet my imaginary style?  Is it too "winter-meets-middlish aged-mom desperate for a little-Spring"
OMG I am doubting myself!

I am not sure....  I am going to make up the muslin for B6183 and see how they fit.

Monday, March 16, 2015

Stash Buster #18 (of 48) : Birthday Raincoat for the soon to be 2 nephew - PUL - Burda 9458

A year ago I made a sweet raincoat for the (then) 2T Chickadee:

So let's talk PUL:  
 Polyurethane Laminated Fabric (PUL Fabric) is a fabric  that has been bonded on one side to a layer of polyurethane film.  The fabric is usually polyester, cotton or a blend - the fabric can be vibrantly printed or dyed prior to the bonding.  The bonding is done via heat (laminated).  It is breathable, usually 100% waterproof, durable, flexible (has a nice drape) and is colourfast.  Hospitals were the original customers of the fabric producers, using the fabric for mattress covers.  PUL fabric is widely used in reusable diaper production.
Babyville Boutique PUL rocked the functionality of a raincoat (breathable and waterproof) and a gorgeous flannel lining made it cozy for a wet, Canadian Spring.  The ducks were a favorite, and I made cute little orange rain pants to complement the coat.

So, now the darling nephew is about to turn 2, and I have some other PUL in The Stash:

The Chickadee had buttons on her jacket, but for DN I have chosen snaps - Babyville snaps are nice and strong, and color coordinated in the yellow.

The pattern is BurdaKids 9458 - and it is as cute a button.  Here is the link to my pattern review.

 I can't wait to hand it over.
I did a PUL How to - for a bib last year:

I lined the jacket in a cozy flannel, it will be loved, I am sure.

Some final images of the chickadee and her coat:

Meters Used on this projects: 3 - 1.5 of Flannel, 1.5 of PUL
Total Meters Busted 3/16/2015: 26.7

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

The Trials and Tribulations of making a Princess Costume - McCalls 7000 - 3T

In the Summer, I was going to make a pretty dress for my 2T niece for her birthday, and so I went to Fabricland and saw a lineup of women at the cutting table all holding turquoise fabric.  "Weird," I thought, and then I asked one woman if there was a school play.  
The woman actually guffawed at me.
Apparently EVERYONE was sold out of Elsa costumes (whatever that meant). And now I know.
Check out just a few of the insane stats for Anna and Elsa's dresses:

I mentioned some of this in my entry - but I need to be completely frank - If I were a young mom of a Frozen-obsessed little girl, this pattern might break my heart.

As it is - I am a Grown-Up Parent of a few boys, and a [dare I say it? - Treasured] Auntie of a 3T princess who really likes Frozen - and this pattern tried my patience.
I expect to be using this pattern for a number of years as we work our way through the princesses and sizes, it's an excellent bodice, skirt, yoke combination - If I use a flesh-toned netting on the yoke I have a great strapless look appropriate for a Canadian child, and I only need to vary length and skirt fullness.  I am pleased to own this pattern.

BUT - this was meant to be a Frozen dress - and it's my first Disney Princess (ask me about superheroes, Thomas the Tank Engine, Cars, Star Wars and I got the average mom in hand, but Princesses?  I had to create a Pin Board to get the classics - Belle, Cinderella, Aurora - straight)

So, First:  This pattern package was a giant PIA - the package did not clearly breakdown the yardage needed of all the different colours,  I had to pull out the instructions for the layouts, and be able to recognize the pattern pieces on the layouts to figure out the contrast codes, so that I could use the package to buy the fabric.

Second, I trace my patterns:  There were 5 sheets of tissue in this package - and there were separate pieces for groups of sizes, separate applique patterns for groups of sizes, and three views.  If I were not an experienced sewist it might have overwhelmed me - and imagine - there are a subsection of sewists who face sewing costumes when they are needed (like when a certain princess's dress is sold out at a certain wonderland) - and this might be the only time they tackle apparel sewing until Prom time.
Cue the violins:  It took me 1.5 hours to trace the pieces for this dress.  I almost frankenpatterned this puppy to make it end.  I ask you - how many young moms wept over this pattern?

Third - and now I will stop counting.  I bought my fabric to match the pattern envelope, and to keep my spirits up I played the movie while I traced and cut.  then my subconscious started wailing like a banshee....  something is amiss....  let's review the imagery below:

Look at the sleeves... the shoulders....  are you with me?  There's something different... 
Holy C!  that's not white!  and, There's a shoulder strap on that dirndl!

TGI'm creative!  I grabbed the package, and the picture and found myself at the feet of the 3T princess
 - "is this the right dress you would like me to make?  just like this?  okay mom?" - 

If she were just a little older and more demanding I would have had to alter the pattern, and go buy more fabric - phew!  I will have to do this when I remake this for her in a year or two, but wow, imagine the hailstorm some moms endured when they produced this lovely dress for Hallow'een:

Okay - now:  The dress was a success, but I added some some gold at the bodice edges - just in case:  
Handy-Dandy - the top-stitching meant I didn't have to [shudder] slipstitch the lining into place. [gross - I was pretty sick of this dress by the time I had to slipstitch]

I finished the edges of the appliques with a zigzag stitch - I made a point of buying a resilient polyester suiting to make this dress (the same fabric used for Teflon and bulletproof tablecloths at conference centres) - the appliques are broadcloth - the zigzag should help them fare better in the washer).

If you are planning the dress - don't forget to adjust the applique at centre back - there's a zipper tab to deal with on the smallest size.

The zipper only goes to the top of the bodice (I assume because the zipper will be too visible on either the black or the white and impossible to coordinate) - plan for a good and easy clasp at the neck.

Just for good measure here is a shot of the full back of the dress.

Sunday, March 8, 2015

Not a Stashbuster - Family Reunion Dress #2 - The Store's Version

The 2nd make of the Family Reunion Dress is done and it is as cute as its own button.   Seriously:  I made an oversize button that featured the repeated pattern.

 I used the Tilda All that is Spring (2014) line for this one, as per the wishes of the store where I am teaching the class.  I was so happy that the print was pretty much on grainline (phew!).  Both fabrics had a one direction pattern, so that posed a little bit of a challenge given the tight margin of error in the cutting and shrinking on this 100% (quilting) cotton.  I didn't have to fudge the grain at all to make it fit.
 Once again I am really proud of my finishing.  I bound all of the exposed seams (so that it would be washable again - but the wrinkle factor in this fabric is a little daunting....)

All in all, I am pleased that this one is the one that will be hanging in the store for fondling.

Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Stash Buster #14 - Red-Hooded Finlayyyyyyson! Dub, Dub, Dub

Another month, another Finlayson - This time a small for DS (the Elder).

So we are clear - my little buddy LOVES hoodies.  He loves his hoodies like Adam Sandler loves his (The YouTube Video can be found here)  I made this one out of a cozy lightweight thermal (waffle-knit) rosy red.

We have tired of his constant silhouette.  Hoods are NOT ALLOWED at the table, and never up in the house or as a substitute for a toque. We are in Canada - it's this cold:

The sweatshirt?  A total success - 1.5m busted!

Stash Buster #17 - Chickweed Easter Dress for the 4T Chickadee

My niece is not into posing for photos this week.  It's too bad because THIS IS ADORABLE.
This is my muslin run for the Family Reunion Dress class I am prepping for the Spring.


I did some fine finishing on this - it is a printed broadcloth, so I was worried that it would shred with washing, so finishing will give it some wearability - if A likes it as much as she liked the last one in this fabric, DSiL will be washing it weekly.

What a great pattern, and how perfectly drafted!  Oliver+S did a stellar job on the pattern, and I can't even tell you what luxury it was to fondle a printed version instead of my now normal pdfs.

Stash Busting Challenge 2015 - ScoreCard

Stash Busting Challenge 2015

Stash Busting Project #1 (of 48) - Gold Julia Cardigan - 2m
Stash Busting Project #2 (of 48) - Blue/Black Interlock Julia Cardigan - 1.8m

Stash Busting Project #3 (of 48) - Blue/Grey with Gold Infinity Scarf - 1m
Stashbuster 4 as yet UFO

Stash Busting Project #5 (of 48): Starlight and Sunset workout gear - 3m
Stash Busters #6 & #7 (of 48): Valentines Day Gifts - Size 4 outfits! - 3m
Stash Buster #8: Dream Realized! Lavender Stretch Lace Bronte Top - 1.5m
Stash Buster #9: Valentine's Giftie for my Hubby - A Luscious Striped Finlayson - 2m
Stash Buster #10: Upcycling for the Canadiens - A Repurposful Bronte - 2m
Stash Buster #8, #11, #12, #13 (of 48): Travel Wardrobe Collection for Winter Business Travel

  • #11 -green shift dress muslin 2.5 m
  • #12 - ugly duckling skirt 1.5 m
  • #13 - impressionist cardigan 3m
Stash Buster 14 - Red-Hooded Finlayyyyyyson! Dub, Dub, Dub 1.5 m
Stash Buster 15 - PJ Trials for the Tween Boy - 2.2 m
Stash Buster #16 (of 48) - and my FIRST BurdaStyle Pattern! -1.5m

Stash Buster #17 - Chickweed Easter Dress for the 4T Chickadee

Stash Buster #18 (of 48) : Birthday Raincoat for the soon to be 2 nephew - PUL - Burda 9458
Stash Buster #19 (of 48): ducky rainsuit for the 18m darling.

Stash Buster 20 of 48 - in progress... Thread Theory Jedediah Pants
Stash Buster #21 (of 48) - B6163 Looking for a TNTee

B 6169 - Moto Jacket
B 6183 top (muslin and chambray versions) 3m



Stashbuster #24 and #25 of 48 - An outfit for the Football Sidelines - 3m
Stash Buster #26) Pattern Review - Imagine Gnats: Alder Skirt {for women} - 2.5m
Stash Buster #27 - Sew So Easy - Gathered Front top - 1m
Stash Buster #28 - Shorts, Shorts, Shorts - 6m
Stash Buster #29 - Printed Knit and Slinky Kimono Top Simplicity 1620 1.5m
Stash Buster #30 and #31 - Seamwork Astoria and Deer and Doe Plantain


Stash Buster #16 (of 48) - and my FIRST BurdaStyle Pattern!

Stash Buster #18 (of 48) : Birthday Raincoat for the soon to be 2 nephew - PUL - Burda 9458