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Friday, June 26, 2015

Stash Buster #30 (of 48) - Sucking it up and completing a UFO - Seamwork Sydney

Back when I was planning for the Plus Size Outfit Contest with I had hoped to include the Seamwork Sydney

Look how cute it is!

I had a great fabric that coordinated well,,, it wasn't a
"Light-weight fabric such as linen, chambray, silk crepe, double gauze, cotton lawn or voile" - I decided to go with "Crazy Rebellion away from the recommended" - I went with a ruched mystery jersey backed with a viscose knit.

Then I cut it out.
It looked HUGE, and sloppy - and I hadn't even stitched it. And - what was I going to do for bias trim? (I even bought (gasp!) 4m of FOE to edge it!)

Seriously - I am over 40 should I really be looking like this:
eek!  The 80s!

I badmouthed myself.

(that and Kmart shoes - I swore I would NEVER.....)

So yesterday, I was getting ready to cut out my planned Aberdeen and the Sydney scoffed at me from my cutting table. So, I looked in my bias trim box and found stash from my bib making days - and I looked at it with the fabric, and challenged myself to face the Syd.

And I started sewing, and then I altered the shoulder, and I bound the edges in the chambray and .... last night, right before bed I put in on.
Holy Heck!
I like it!

And today I am wearing it - I wore it in public all morning for running DS (the elder) to his babysitting course, taking DS (the younger) to daycare, buying train tickets, grabbing coffee, and now right through to lunch hour at my desk.

**** so the alteration:****
I laid out the garment (since it was already cut out) and pin basted it (used pins instead of stitching) and put it on.
The neckline was too big, so I inched at the shoulder , then repinned.  
The fit was better, so I laid the pieces flat and measured and cut a wedge out - along the shoulder seam -  1" at the neckline, reducing the adjustment to nil at the shoulder point (which was the edge of the flap on me).
It worked like a charm - I love this topper.

Thursday, June 25, 2015

Stashbuster #28 and #29 - A tale of two pdfs (Seamwork Astoria and Deer and Doe Plaintain)

To fit the waist or not to fit the waist....  
I am seriously short of outfits right now - so, I am trying to focus on some efficient sewing.  I wanted to ensure I had some core wardrobe pieces (or at least the pattern selected and altered for core wardrobe pieces).

Here are two core pieces I am working on - first the Seamwork Astoria  - This is my muslin-ish sample - I think I want to do an fba on it next time - to try to reduce the arm scythe wrinkles. - I think that's what's needed - that will give me a tad more length and circumference in the bodice to allow the waistline to fall horizontally, too...  I think. I'd love some feedback on whether you think that will do the trick...

Item two is a loose T - the Plantain T from Deer and Doe  The FBA looks good on this - the fabric was a pain to work with - the stripes are off grain, but I am quite happy with the fit boobs and up.

I have the shorts pattern down now my latest iteration is perfect, I think - I haven't got a picture, yet, but I am going to make up another pair at Bermuda length - soon.  I need to make a party dress soon, though our friends' wedding is racing up on me.

Busted:  4m

Monday, June 22, 2015

Concurrent Projects: My sewing Room is about to burst!

What in the world?  My sewing has taken control!
Here's what's about to happen:
Seamwork Astoria - in Navy

Seamwork Aberdeen - in variegated sweater knit
Itch to Stitch - Lindy Petal Skirt - in LLBean white knit with a printed Red floral print
Vogue 8817 Deer and Doe Plantain - ecru and black stripe

Vogue 1141 - White Vicose Jersey - and a black one too!
Simplicity 2410 - navy and chartreuse georgette
McCalls 7053  - navy and chartreuse georgette  (Yes, Matchy Match)
Butterick 6053 - seafoam gabardine (This really needs to move up the list - I have to wear it mid July!)

And I need another pair of shorts.....  holy hannah!

Monday, June 15, 2015

A Wedding!

We have been invited to a wedding!  In my age group, we have hardly any weddings - my friends are either long married or recently divorced - and the nieces are a few years away (I think).  There was a time when the fridge was covered in Save the Dates - but last week I got to post a new wedding invite over last year's (DB's wedding) S-t-D.

And, it's a colleague's wedding (DH's work buddy)....  What will I sew?
I am leaning towards a replica of B6053
MISSES' DRESS: Lined dress has bias neck and sleeve binding, princess seams, fitted bodice, midriff, side pockets, hem band (cut on crosswise grain), cap sleeves and exposed back zipper. Topstitching. Separate pattern pieces included for A/B, C, D cup sizes.
Designed for Light to Medium Weight Woven Fabrics.
FABRICS: Gabardine, Linen, Twill, Broadcloth, Denim.
*With Nap **Without Nap
NOTIONS: A,B: 20" Exposed Zipper and Hook & Eye.
I have sea-foam gabardine - the perfect wedding fabric!  (for you millennials, that's a joke - sea-foam gabardine is very 70's wedding fabric - but hey - it all comes back, right?)

Here are my other options:
M6711 (I will need to alter the skirt to be a little more full - I have an orange knit oh! and a gorgeous parrot blue knit - I could colour block!..... maybe not for the wedding, but as another occasion dress!)

S2406 I am thinking the maxi - perhaps in mint blue?  (like that's not sea-foam)

V2900 (15 pieces for this one)  DKNY, I love you.  I love this dress - there are princess seams and I could do an FBA... 

They are all summery - it's a July wedding, so it will be hot.... I have other dresses but these seem the most heat-palatable....  what do you think?

Wednesday, June 10, 2015

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Pattern Review - Imagine Gnats: Alder Skirt {for women}

I am pretty excited about my skirt - so excited that here is a picture of it in need of a pressing!

I love the front of my Alder Skirt - I mean - REALLY LOVE IT!
Allie at IndieSew had some great things to say about the pattern, and I went with her recommendations and her review as my guidance - I made sure my fabric had some stretch, and I fit the skirt to my waist measurement, focusing on my Hip measurement for the pattern.
I also spent a great deal of time figuring out which version had the lay-flat pockets instead of the berry-collecting pockets.
On page 4 under "Cutting out Pattern Pieces" there is a note that
View B is the Flat Pocket Option.

My version needed a major alteration to the back of the garment (so great that I eliminated the elastic waist and sized it down significantly).  I am thrilled with the front of the skirt - I need to make it again to consider the back as designed and evaluate whether as-designed it is a skirt for me.

<UPDATE: What I did: Honestly I wouldn't recommend doing what I did: I chopped 6 inches out of the middle on grain-line from hem to waistband (as close as I dared to the darts) and then added two more darts and a center-back seam). - I think I am going to whip the skirt up in a quilting cotton (one of the recommended fabrics) and give it another go before I publish the review to PR.>

 I found that it was difficult to find pattern reviews for this item online, so I am offering some suggestions to encourage an approach to the project that will produce success.


Overall this pattern is nicely packaged - the cover is attractive and colourful, the pages and font are nice (but a darker colour would have been appreciated, it is a little faint on the page).  This pattern needs a line drawing - I have searched and cannot find one;  there are very few rear-shot images of the skirt.

"2-22" (but actually comparable to extended sizing)

from the pattern package

I am used to the garment measurements being available - and they aren't here. The sizing runs very Large.  I am a 35 waist and 54 hip, I am used to making adjustments - But I feel like the size chart is closer to the garment measurements on this chart.  I normally sew an 18 or 20 and I started with a 16 on this chart, and needed to alter down the back significantly.
The sizing is not reflective of what I am used to seeing. If we review the upper range of sizing and compare to the W sizing from Simplicity:
In the end, I recommend you mark your desired waistline and hip line on the pattern and measure, measure, measure.

Quality of Instruction

The instructions are clear, have good graphics - I didn't run into any vague directions - excellent.


The pattern is well laid out, has nice colour features and markings are well drafted.  I wasn't able to activate layers, but the pattern would lend itself to this.
Lengthen/Shorten, grainlines, and key body measurements should be added. 

Further Recommendations

  1. Have your Ruler ready when laying out the pattern - you will need to draw-in the lengthen/shorten lines,
  2. Be prepared to measure yourself and the pattern - you will need to add your own hipline and waistline to the pattern, so prepare for that as well - and note that the garment is meant to sit low - on the hips. 
  3. Take your time and consider the pockets and the front design elements, and take time to ensure you have selected the correct pattern pieces for your desired project.
  4. The back - I found that there was an issue with the garment back - the gathering is extreme - consider your wasit to hip and consider adding additional or enlarging the dart.  Ideally the waist band at it's fullest extension should pull up over your hips - and no more - I found that there was far too much fabric and the gathering was awkward and not flattering for a small waist (especially a curvy figure with an high hip:waist ratio) (I suspect I will size down the back and leave the front where I already sized down).
  5. Start with a lighter fabric that can take the gathering at the waistband well.

Friday, June 5, 2015

Stashbuster #24 and #25 of 48 - An outfit for the Football Sidelines

You know that mom who shows up to events looking all rock'n'roll and yummy mommy and cooler than all'that?  I wish it were me, but I'm quite a bit more Suzy Homemaker. 
In my dreams I go all hipster cool and look fab on the sidelines, but reality is, I AM super-cool, but more like a Susan Sarandon character - Cool on the inside, in the past, and in my actions (my appearance is a red herring)

DS (the elder) plays football in a league every weekend May and June.
I needed an outfit to wear to the field, that fit, looked good, allowed me to suffer the heat.

Two TNTs made up today's bust!
(There's a play on words possible there - two TNA's make up today's bust!)

Here's my twirly view of the outfit - never mind DH's shadow or the photo-bombing Ed the Dog.  Look at the lovely Blue Sky!

The shorts are made from a light brushed twill long in my stash and are the result of my recent Lady Green Jeans endeavour.  I am slowly getting the front to fit better - the butt fits perfectly, but I haven't perfected the front.  The fabric sucks the wrinkles out of the air, but to show up to the game it is perfect!

The Shirt is TNT New Look 6160 - FBA'd to within an inch of it's life, nice sway back adjust, but I have a prominent rear that keeps it climbing up a little.  I like the way it fits, and I am really happy with the neckline, so I will continue to make it just this way until I drop the circumference of my hips.
Seriously - can I get a round of high fives for the stripe matching?
Both Jerseys have been in my stash since DS (the elder) was a baby.

Meters Used on these projects: 3
Total Meters Busted 5/6/2015: tbc