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Thursday, November 17, 2016

Washi Dress - this muslin exceeded its intent!

What a cute, comfy dress for the Autumn events that pop-up!
Which can also be purchased at IndieSew
I finally decided to make this dress when I realized that I needed a couple easy dresses for the winter indoor concerts we have planned - something easy to wear with boots and tights, and to layer with a cardigan.  This iteration was supposed to be my muslin, but the fit was so bang-on (I didn't need to narrow the shoulder or adjust the bust!) it was a go ahead.  - I managed to squeeze all of this out of 2m of a wide chambray.

The wrinkles abound because I have worn this twice since it came off the dress form. - Suck it up, buttercup - I am here to share, not be judged.

I was new to shirring on my machine - and this was ridiculously easy.  
The pocket was AWESOME - I am on the dress pocket bandwagon.

I made my own partial lining for the bodice using the pattern pieces as the template, and ended the lining as free floating ABOVE the rows of shirring.

At the sleeves I burrito'ed the whole bit to encase the underarm in the lining.

The front was similarly lined and freefloating.  I *might* look at attaching it at the waistline next time....  I'll see.  So far it has been easy to wear.

So for those of you who question "why" I would Hong Kong this fabric - check out the fraying from it's first wash - this is under the facing.

The Guts (Note my judicious  use of leftover bias tape - and the cute bursts of colour :)

The armscye looks like this when you burrito it instead of binding it - I did the front and the back in separate stitching and folding opeations, and understitched the lining to the notches front and back (well into the part covered by the cap).

So,  so super cute!  I made a little matchy Lisbon cardigan/topper as well... and felt really youthful and comfortable in this outfit

Monday, November 7, 2016

B6244 Lisette for Butterick Cascade Front Coat

B6244 Lisette for Butterick
 Last Wednesday (!!!!) DH and I took a day off together and were out running errands - kids both in their daytime gigs meant we were f.r.e.e.   We were at the west end of town, so very close to the local Fabricland and my gallant knight encouraged me to swing by - and I dragged him in for his opinion on a "sante fe" knit so I could make an on-style cardigan.   When we walked in we found boiled wool, blanket fabric and coating on *sale* !   Stashed away in my pile of patterns I wanted to try was Butterick 6244 - so a project was born when he helped me pick out a fabric with a decent wrong side.

The pattern B6244 from Lisette is straight forward - just a single worrisome pivot at each neck/shoulder joint.  I shortened the sleeves to fit and the length by 3 inches.  I graded up much less than I used to have to (my hips are down over two inches since September) and was within the pattern measurements finally!  (I also referred to the sewalong)

I changed the hemming method to face the hem (at the same 5/8") with a ribbing I had in my stash. Using a little stretch on the ribbing only (maybe 10%?)  - I stitched it at 5/8 then flipped it to the hem side and zig-zagged the edge.  On the intersecting hems, I started a new strip with the end simply folded over and continue on my merry way.  The hem is to the outside on the neckline and front, and to the inside on the bottom edge (per the pattern).

My style sense was born in the 80's and this fabric felt so Ralph Lauren, so I added shoulder pads without a second thought.  I bound the arm hole with a double fold bias tape and used a twill tape along the shoulder and neckline seam.  

B6244 Lisette for Butterick
B6244 Lisette for Butterick
B6244 Lisette for Butterick

In the end, when I look in the mirror I am not 100% that this is the front opening for me - but it sure is easy to wear and will definitely be my go-to until the snow flies (and by which time I hope to fit nicely into my parka!)